What is horse gram?

Horse gram is a small, hard, reddish-brown pulse that grows where little else will, on poor soils and in dry seasons. In Hindi it is kulthi; in Tamil, kollu; its botanical name is Macrotyloma uniflorum. It has fed people and animals across South India and the Himalayan foothills for centuries, and it carries a long history as both food and traditional remedy.

In Ayurveda and Siddha

Both Ayurveda and Siddha medicine hold horse gram in high regard. In the Ayurvedic tradition it is classed as ushna (warming) and astringent, and is described with the special property of ashmari bhedana, said to break down stones in the body. Across the Himalayan villages it has long been used as a home remedy for a range of complaints, kidney and bladder stones among them. In the yogic tradition too it is spoken of as a strengthening food. Isha names it among the pulses Sadhguru points to. It is one of those foods that traditional households kept as much for the body as for the table.

In nutrition

Horse gram is a source of protein, fibre and carbohydrates, along with a range of micronutrients. A systematic review in the Journal of Food Science noted that it also carries plant compounds such as phenolic acids, flavonoids and tannins, which researchers have studied for various effects. Because the raw bean is dense and hard, it is usually soaked, boiled or sprouted before eating.

Ways people eat it

In South Indian kitchens horse gram is most often cooked into a thin, peppery rasam or a soup, ground into a spiced powder, or sprouted. The cooking water itself is sometimes drunk. It has a deep, earthy taste that suits warming, well-spiced dishes.

Horse gram is an old food worth knowing on its own terms. If it appeals, try it in a soup or a rasam and see how it sits with you.